The Forgotten Highway

I had some time off before Xmas and put this to good use by jumping on the motorbike and heading off to Auckland to see a friend.

The Forgotten Highway as its name suggests is a little used road that runs for 150km from Stratford to Taumarunui through rugged and sparsely populated country. In the biking world the road has something of a mythical reputation and was definitely on the must do list.

I decided to travel up to Auckland via the Forgotten Highway even though this meant adding a good 300km onto what was already a long trip. To break up the journey I decided to stay the night at the highways one and only village, Whangamomona.

After and uneventful enough journey I finally reached Stratford and turned onto the Forgotten Highway and set off on the 63km to Whangamomona. This section of the road had more traffic than I thought it would but was well surfaced, tight and twisty and passed over a couple of saddles before finally arriving at the nights stop. I stayed at the rather quaint and old fashioned Whangamomona Hotel which was all creaking floorboards and I am sure one or two ghosts as well – splendid stuff.

As is the way in rural New Zealand the hotel also serves as the pub and is the focal point of the village. As luck would have it the local Xmas parade started not long after I arrived so I sat outside had a few beers, some fish and chips and took in the action.

The next day I set off early, as I still had to complete the Forgotten Highway and even after that still had a long way to go to Auckland.

This next section is where the serious business started as it became narrower and more demanding including a fairly long single lane tunnel. After about 20 minutes the tarmac stopped and the road became unsealed for the next 10km or so. I am emphatically not an off-road rider, particularly when on a sports bike, so this was real buttock clenching stuff. The first few hundred meters were the worst as the gravel seemed to be particularly deep with the bike squirming and sliding all over the place. I almost turned back at this point but decided having come this far, to tough it out. After a while I sort of got a rhythm going, relaxed a bit and got through this section just fine. The reward after the gravel was the best riding of the trip. The scenery was great, the road was lovely and twisty but not too tight and was great fun with the proviso the speed was kept down to sensible levels (there were a fair number of rocks on the road, not to mention cow poo). I didn’t see a single car on this entire section.

The rest of the ride was much less exciting and I eventually made it up to Auckland.

Auckland is not exactly my favourite city but it was on its best behaviour when I was there. The weather was lovely and I had a very chilled out time with my friend and her family.

I needed to get back to Wellington in a hurry so it was the boring but fast SH1 for me. Boring it certainly was, but not without incident as I nearly got knocked off, got nicked for speeding (109km/hr on the Desert Road - oh well) and left my tank bag behind! A nice trip all the same.

 Mt Taranaki. This was taken not long before I turned onto the Forgotten Highway.

 The hotel.

 Me outside the hotel.

 The single lane tunnel. The gravel started not long after this.

This was a nice little scenic reserve just after the gravel section.

UK and Switzerland

Blighty time again. As ever on these trips family and friends are the reason for coming over with everything else very much taking second place. Nevertheless we managed to fit in plenty of sightseeing along the way.

We stopped in Switzerland for six days on the way over to the UK staying in the alpine resort of Zermatt for four days and Zurich for the rest of the time.

I visited Switzerland in 2006 staying in the rather splendid city of Basel. One of my ambitions was to see the Matterhorn, which towers above the alpine village of Zermatt. The main reason for being in Basel was to visit a friend but I unexpectedly found myself with a couple of days spare so leapt onto the nearest train and headed off to the Alps. To cut a long story short I managed to catch a glimpse of the mountain and found out that one could take a series of lifts up to the nearby Kleine Matterhorn, which at 3883m is the highest left accessible point in Europe. Anybody who know’s me will know that I love my mountains, so I just had to go there. It was already pretty late so I would have to go up on the next (and my final day) in the resort. As fate would have it the weather was rubbish so no mountains for me and I returned to Basel with the Kleine Matterhorn unconquered.

Fast-forward six years later. We were in the process of booking our tickets for this years UK trip when we noticed that one of the stopover destinations was Zurich so the decision was quickly made to stop in Switzerland for a few days. This wasn’t just about another opportunity to knock off the Kleine Matterhorn as much as a chance for some rest and relaxation before the rigors of the UK, which is inevitably rather hectic.

Zermatt is a very pretty resort set in a stunning location and it is fair to say that Neena and I were both really taken with the place. It wasn’t all perfect however as the weather was a bit on the cold side and there was a lot of construction work going on with plenty of ugly cranes dotting the landscape.

The other downside is the cost everything; Switzerland sure is one expensive country. This didn’t come as too much of a shock to us and we had done our research, but is something to bear in mind if ever coming this way; a second mortgage would be useful as would selling off any spare body parts.

To reach Zermatt we took the train from Zurich Airport. It may be a cliché but Swiss railways really are super efficient but also scarily expensive, even by Swiss standards. We managed to buy a Swiss Transfer Ticket that allows you to travel from your point of entry into the country to your chosen resort (by the shortest route) and then back out the same way. These tickets can only be purchased from outside Switzerland and are only valid for stays of less than one month but reduced the cost of our train tickets in half.

On the train up to Zermatt.

We didn’t really suffer from any jetlag on the journey so upon reaching the resort dumped our bags in our apartment (surprisingly good) and set about exploring. This consisted of visiting as many cheese and chocolate shops as we could. The food in general was superb with the coronary inducing cheese fondues a particular highlight.

We purchased a lift pass that allowed us to access three separate mountain areas – Gornegrat, Rothorn/Sunnegga and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. 

 The Matterhorn - taken from Zermatt.

 Zermatt - most of the building were covered with flowers, which was nice.

Some of the buildings were hundreds of years old.

The next day we got the tramping boots on and took the cog railway train up to Gornegrat. The train takes about twenty minutes to reach the top with the views on the way up getting ever more spectacular. We got off the train to be treated to the sight of numerous 4000m peaks with rivers of ice flowing down from them. The view really was quite something, not that we had the place to ourselves, as there were hundreds of other tourists taking in the scenery as well. There was a whole network of walking tracks so we set off to explore these. Most people just take the train up for the views so as soon as we started walking the crowds just melted away and we were very soon on our own. I am use to slogging up dirty great hills in New Zealand so it was a real novelty letting a train do all the work for me even if it did feel a bit like cheating.

 This was taken from the top of Gornegrat.

So was this one, but looking the other way.

On the way back down.

We visited the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise the next day. To reach the area we took a cable car up to Trockener Steg and then another one from there up to Kleine Matterhorn itself. The weather on the way up was cool and cloudy which was a bit of a bugger but not far from the top of the second cable car the clouds started to thin out and all of a sudden we were bathed in sunshine. We got out of the cable car and then had to walk along a tunnel cut into the mountain before eventually arriving at an elevator. I wasn’t really expecting this, as the lift was basically identical to the ones you get in office blocks anywhere in the world. Anyway, off and up we went and several minutes later the doors opened and there we were at the top of the Kleine Matterhorn. The air at this altitude is thin and cold and takes a little getting used to but was nowhere near as debilitating as the conditions we had up in the Andes last year. We were treated to 360° views from the top and looked out over a sea of cloud stretching out below us. After the obligatory photo’s we took the elevator back down and then went through another tunnel, which took us out onto the Theodul Glacier for a muck about in the snow. We stayed up there for a fair while but eventually the cold got to us and it was time to head back down to Zermat.

 View from the top of Kleine Matterhorn. 

Us at the top.

We spent the following day tramping in the Rothorn area. This was all much more low key with very few people about and meant that we spent much of the day walking on our own, which was nice. The scenery was great but not quite up to the standard of the other areas or maybe we were just getting a bit blasé by this point. For me the most interesting part of the day was taking the train up to Rothorn itself. Unlike the Gornegrat train this one tunneled up through the mountain; imagine a London underground station, but with the platform at 45°.All in all an impressive piece of engineering and also more sympathetic to the environment, unlike normal surface lifts which tend to be a scar on the landscape.

 The Matterhorn.

Looking down on Zermatt.

A parting shot of the mountain - we never managed to catch it completely free of cloud.

After one more day it was off on the train back to Zurich. In true Swiss style the city is pretty, prosperous and well run but somehow left me a little cold. Neena loved the place and thought I was being a miserable bugger, so I suspect the fault is more with me than with Zurich. One place I did enjoy was an incredibly trendy and fashionable shopping precinct located near our hotel called the Viadukt. The arches under the viaduct have been converted into shops, restaurants and bars and has been really well done. The shops were beyond designer with prices to match with my favourite being a hifi shop selling among other things speakers shaped like mushrooms. The people there were immaculately turned out and I had plenty of fun in mounting a fruitless search trying to find someone less well dressed than me.

 This was taken near our hotel while walking to the town centre. 

 In the centre of the town down by the river.

 The swanky Viaduct with a not so swanky me.

One for all you motorcycle lovers out there....this was right near our hotel.

In what is fast becoming a tradition Neena and I spent a week tramping in the Lake District with friends namely Robin, Eddie, Nick, Kevin and Lulu the dog.

We stayed in a rather nice converted stable in the tiny hamlet of High Ireby, situated on the northern edge of the National Park.

With the exception of Skiddaw none of the walking was that demanding which made for a pleasant and relaxed week.

The first tramp we did was to Catbells, which overlooks Keswick. This peak may only be 1480 feet but has some wonderful views from the top.

 Taken from Catbells.

As was this.

Eddie was dead keen to bag Skiddaw is it was the only 3000 footer left on his list. I had also never been there and given that it was only a short distance from High Ireby it was a no brainier to give it a go. On the second day Robin, Eddie and I duly set off on the slog up to the summit. For most of the way up things didn’t look too promising with mist and poor visibility from the word go. I found this most disheartening as at the end of the day, for me at least, the high peaks are all about the view (up in the cloud you could be anywhere).

We were sitting down having a break when we met a tramper on his way back down. He informed us that there was a temperature inversion meaning that it was clear at the top. These are quite rare in this part of the world (we saw one in Zermatt, but I have never seen one in the Lake District) so this quickly spurred us into action and gave us a new lease of life. The last 20 minutes or so before the top are a real grunt being very steep and slippery and it was during this section that the clouds began to thin out and the temperature soared. We made the summit to find ourselves surrounded by a sea of cloud with just a few of the higher Lakeland peaks visible in the distance. This was quite special and not something I will forget in a hurry.

 On the way up to Skiddaw.

At the top of Skiddaw.

It was low level stuff for the rest of the week with a walk through the Borrowdale valley being a particular highlight.

 Taken in the Borrowdale Valley.

I can't remember where this one was taken - suggestions appreciated.

The lads.

We spent the next week in Harlow before hiring a car and heading off to Brighton for a few days. It is many years since I have been there and either the place has been spruced up in the meantime or it is way better than I remember because I thought it was just lovely. Mind you it poured with rain for most of the time, but we didn’t care.

We also walked to Hove. There were dozens and dozens of charity shops on-route, in fact they appeared to be the only establishments really thriving, a sure sign of the times. Neena was in her element and made it her mission to visit every single one of them, at least twice. I was contemplating hara-kiri when we stumbled on a wondrous café, which sold of all things, New Zealand style coffee. By this I mean very strong, creamy and warm. The British style by contrast is for relatively weak, thin and scalding hot coffee with third degree burns a near certainty! Turns out the place was run by a bloke from just down the road from us in Wellington, which explains the great coffee. I liked the place so much I gladly trudged all the way out to Hove the next day for another caffeine fix, even it did mean doing all the charity shops again.

Brighton from Brighton Pier.

He probably won’t thank me for this but my brother turned 50 this year. To celebrate this (in) auspicious occasion his girlfriend Debbie brought Robin and myself (many, many thanks by the way) tickets to go rafting at the Olympic venue at Waltham Cross. This was great fun, so once again many thanks.

 Limbering up.

 Ready for action.

Action.

Hawkins Hill – Red Rocks Loop

This is one of my favourite and most varied walks with great views up on the hills and equally great coastal scenery.

There are plenty of variations of the route but I usually take the Tip Track, which starts on Happy Valley Road and is about a 10-minute drive from Lyall Bay.

The track starts off steeply but the gradient decreases somewhat after about 10 minutes and from here it is a steady slog up to Hawkins Hill that takes me about an hour. Hawkins Hill at 495m is the highest point on the hills to the South of Wellington and has terrific views of the city and the South Island. Wellington is a breezy place at the best of times and Hawkins Hills exposed position overlooking the coast means that it is often ferociously windy which can make it a real challenge to actually make it up to the radar station situated on the summit. 

On the next section I initially retrace the same route but after about 10 minutes there is a junction where I pick up a track (signposted) which heads of to Red Rocks, which is situated on the South Coast. This part of the walk winds its way over the hills before dropping steeply down to the coast. The rocks here are indeed red but the areas main claim to fame is the Seal colony, which is situated there. At this point it is usually time for a brew up and some Seal spotting. From here it is a case of following the coast back before eventually arriving back at Happy Valley and then off to find the nearest café. Depending on how much Seal spotting you do the whole walk should take 3 to 4 hours.

 Trig point on top of Hawkins Hill.

 Looking toward Makara Wind Farm.

Mount Tapuaenuku (I think)

 The number of Seals present depends on the time of the year but they are at there most numerous over the winter months.

 They might look cute but they can move pretty fast and bite!

 I always give the Seals plenty of space and used a zoom to take pictures.

A Ferry heading off to the South Island.

This part of the coast is pretty rugged.

Another South Island Motorcycle Trip!

Accompanying me were Stephen, Gavin and Tracey.

The last trip in March was a great success so a plan was quickly hatched to do a longer 4-day trip and venture a bit further afield. We decided to head down the West coast to the Franz Joseph glacier. It has been a lovely dry, sunny and warm autumn, but come the day of the ride the weather pattern had changed and wet weather was forecast on the West Coast for the entire period. Being the hardened bad-assed bikers that we are, we chickened out and decided to head down the East Coast instead.

The Southern Alps are a high and rather abrupt mountain range and tend to create a pronounced rain shadow meaning that cool rainy weather on the West Coast often leads to hot, dry conditions on the East Coast, so there was plenty of logic behind the change of route. To put this in context, some locations in the West can receive up to 9 metres of rain a year with many places on the Eastern side receiving less than 1 metre.

We took the ferry over to Picton and from there headed down to Methven where we stayed the night.

From Methven we headed off to Lake Tekapo and then onto Lake Pukaki. Lake Pukaki is a wonderful turquoise colour and is formed by melt water from the Franz Joseph Glacier. This part of the ride passes through high plains (McKenzie Country) and scenery wise was stunning. The actual riding on this route is ostensibly pretty easy, but was marred by winds which must have hit 100km/hr at times and the closer we got to Lake Pukaki the worse they got. We had planned to ride the 50km or so along the lake to the base of Mt Cook but we could see there was heavy rain in the distance so beat a hasty retreat back to Lake Tekapo. Accommodation was pretty hard to come by, but we eventually found some rooms in a hotel complex called Peppers (I think). The rooms were expensive, cramped and poorly ventilated. You quite literally could not swing a cat in them, and believe you me we tried. Not recommended – the hotel that is. We did at least beat the rain, which arrived just as we checked in at the hotel.

After a rather uncomfortable night it was a relief to get back on the bikes and hit the road. The rain had also cleared up and after a nice and relaxed days riding we ended up at the mountain resort of Hanmer Springs where we stayed the night. The resort is very pretty and we quickly headed off to its famous hot pools, which were just what we needed.

After a much more relaxed night we alas came to the last day of the trip. This is also where we said goodbye to Gavin and Tracey who were heading down to Christchurch, whilst Stephen and I headed back to Picton to catch the ferry back to Wellington.

Rather than head back on the relatively boring SH 1 we decided to take the alternative SH 70 to Kaikoura and then onto Picton. This turned out to be the most demanding riding of the whole trip as the road was narrow and twisty with lots of steep drop-offs and liberal dosings of gravel and cow poo on many of the bends. Mind you, it didn’t stop me from giving it “some welly” along this section though I was ever mindful of the hazards in front of me. The scenery along this 100km or so section was rather splendid but it was still a bit if a relief to finally make it to Kaikoura.

Kaikoura is a pleasant little town and is well frequented by tourists who come for the whale watching tours, which sail from here. We had a ferry to catch so didn’t have time for any marine based mammalian activities (highly recommended by the way) so after the obligatory fish and chips lunch set off on the 2 hour ride back to Picton.

 On the road to Methven.

 Lake Tekapo.

 Lake Pukaki - this is as far as we got.

 McKenzie Country

 Near Mt Hutt on the way back to Hanmer Springs.

Somewhere on SH 70.

South Island Motorcycle Trip

These pictures were taken on a motorcycle trip around the top of the South Island with a couple of guy’s from work.

We finished work early on Friday and caught the ferry over to Picton. From here we rode to Nelson via the Queen Charlotte Driveway.

The next day we rode over to Motueka and then onto Takaka. The road to Takaka is steep and twisty and climbs up to about 800m before dropping just as steeply down the other side and onto the town itself. This makes for some demanding riding and I really pushed it on this section leaving the other two a long way behind. I was doing my best Valentino Rossi impression when I was promptly over-taken by three other bikers who were riding so fast that it felt like I was going backwards! Oh well, a dose of reality then – mind you one of the riders overtook on the wrong side of the road on a blind bend, so I guess there is a fine line between riding “enthusiastically” and riding like a complete idiot.

After lunch at Takaka we headed back to Motueka and from there the 150km or so to Murchison. Riding wise all three of us thought this was the best part of the trip with seemingly endless wide sweeping bends and great scenery.

We stayed the night in Murchison and then headed back to Picton via St Arnaud and the Nelson Lakes NP. This is a stunning part of New Zealand and reminds me very much of the highlands of Scotland. Unfortunately we had rain on and off for most of the last day which made the roads very slippery indeed (we are in the midst of a major drought and it hadn’t rained for over a month) which put paid to any more heroics on the bike.

A short but really enjoyable trip along some of the best biking roads in New Zealand.

Waiting for the ferry.

 At the top of the Takaka Hill.

At St Arnaud in the Nelson Lakes NP. 

Ditto.

   Back at Picton.