A new year, a new cruise.
We went on a very similar cruise last year to New Caledonia
and Vanuatu. A tropical cyclone however lead to a 500km detour and us missing
out on Noumea and Lifou in New Caledonia.
Neena was a big fan of last year’s trip and noticed that
there were some really cheap deals on offer and thought we had some unfinished
business, so it was cruise (and Pacific Pearl) time again.
We visited Noumea, Lifou, Port Villa and Mare.
Noumea was the first port of call, and to be honest rather
disappointing. We met a lady on last year’s trip who thought the place was
wonderful and had some of the best patisseries outside of France. She was so
gushing in her praise, that the place had attained a somewhat mythical status
with us, and couldn’t have possibly live up to its reputation, and so it
proved.
We found the town to be bland and totally lacking in any
kind of charm, and more importantly, totally lacking in decent patisseries! I
am sure they were there, but we certainly couldn’t find them. Noumea also attained
the dubious distinction, of being, by some margin, the most expensive place we
have ever visited.
On the positive side, we went on a tour of the rather
stunning Tjibaou Cultural Centre, which is about a half an hour’s bus ride out
of town. The guide was excellent and gave us the fascinating historical context
that lead to the centre being built, which I reckon, is basically the French
trying to make amends for the way the indigenous Kanak population has been
treated in the past.
The Pacific Pearl in Noumea
Taken from a view point on the way to Tjibaou Cultural Centre.
Tjibaou Cultural Centre.
Another highlight is Lemon beach, which is rather lovely,
and only short bus ride out of town. If we find ourselves in Noumea again, this
is where we will be.
The next day so saw us in the small island of Lifou. This
was much more like it, with lovely beaches, warm seas and lots of snorkelling
to be done. The island had a very chilled out and relaxed atmosphere and was a
far nicer place to spend time in than Noumea.
There was no port in Lifou, so the ship anchored up, and we were taken ashore by Tender.
Yours truly in Lifou.
Lifou again, just before a monster, and surprisingly cold rain storm.
After Lifou, it was on to Port Vila. We didn’t take to the
place last time we were there, but possibly because we were subconsciously comparing
it if with Noumea, had a much more favourable impression this time around. We
spent most of the time on Tranquillity Island where we visited a turtle
sanctuary, went for a bush walk and, yes, you guessed it, went snorkelling.
Neena at the Turtle Sanctuary on Tranquility Island.
Tranquility Island
Vanuatu and New Caledonia, overall, are very nice indeed. They
are however, certainly not the paradise’s they are often portrayed to be (where
is?) and have their fair share of problems. Everywhere we snorkelled much of the
coral was in poor condition and either dead or dying. This in part is doubtless
due to climate change, but I suspect, mostly due to the sheer number, of often
disrespectful people, who visit them; I lost count of the number of idiots
walking on the coral and worse!
The last port of call was Mare Island, which we also visited
last year. Where the ship anchored was pleasant enough, but that is about it,
so we elected to spend $20 dollars or so and take a bus to the other side of
the Island. What a good move this was, as we spent the day on the most stunning
beach of the whole trip, which was a fitting way to end things.
Mare Island.
Mare Island. I had to swim out a fair way to reach the better parts of the reef.
After Mare, we had a 2½ day sail on lovely calm seas, back
to cold and windy Wellington.
